As far as I can see, there are two ways to look at the publishers of Monocle Magazine's entry into the London cafe scene. The first is, oh god help us, this is exactly what the quality coffee revolution should be trying to avoid: pretension and a sense of exclusivity. The second is, well, this is exactly what the quality coffee revolution needs, people with a reputation for identifying and championing excellence and style.
The Chiltern Street cafe seems to embody both, but despite my hesitations, the better than decent coffee and refreshingly unpretentious staff made this a cafe worth visiting. As you'd expect the cafe is attractively designed and the Marylebone clientele fits the bill.
They should do without the delivery of coffees on airplane-style trays with packets of sugar, but they make up for it by giving away boxes of matches.
Review by Derek Lamberton.Tweet