Bulldog Edition

Bulldog Edition

The arrival of the The Ace Hotel in Shoreditch was shrouded in mystery and questions; how would the iconic brand be interpreted here and more importantly who would run the cafe, famously the charge of Stumptown in both New York and Portland? Rumours abounded.

Well, the location, and indeed the hotel and its resident restaurant Hoi Polloi, are suitably hip, so it should come as no surprise that they've teamed up with Square Mile for a collaboration on the coffee shop. The Bulldog Edition is surprisingly low key, a relaxed space that spills out into an informal, and at times lively, hotel lobby area. It has all the state-of-the-art, of-the-moment equipment and gadgets without being remotely obvious or in your face. It feels like coffee service stripped back. Succinct menu. Simple and effective. No big deal. Of course the coffee *is* a big deal; the espresso is spot on and the filter coffee is the first readily available example of the much discussed coffee shots (filter made through the espresso machine) served in London; no flourishes, no explanation. Evolution?

Reviewed by Faerietale Foodie. Photo by Vic Frankowski.